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Demonstration Garden. How we had started.
2020 What we had achieved
OUR DEVELOPMENT WORKS IN 2021
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MFK GARDENS FARM PRODUCTION PRINT & VIDEO ADVERTS
WHY REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE?
"If you’ve never heard about the amazing potential of regenerative agriculture and land use practices to naturally sequester a critical mass of CO2 in the soil and forests, you’re not alone. One of the best-kept secrets in the world today is that the solution to global warming and the climate crisis (as well as poverty and deteriorating public health) lies right under our feet, and at the end of our knives and forks."
-Ronnie Cummins, Regeneration International Steering Committee Member
https://regenerationinternational.org/why-regenerative-agriculture/
-Ronnie Cummins, Regeneration International Steering Committee Member
https://regenerationinternational.org/why-regenerative-agriculture/
The loss of the world’s fertile soil and biodiversity, along with the loss of indigenous seeds and knowledge, pose a mortal threat to our future survival. According to soil scientists, at current rates of soil destruction (i.e. decarbonization, erosion, desertification, chemical pollution), within 50 years we will not only suffer serious damage to public health due to a qualitatively degraded food supply characterized by diminished nutrition and loss of important trace minerals, but we will literally no longer have enough arable topsoil to feed ourselves. Without protecting and regenerating the soil on our 4 billion acres of cultivated farmland, 8 billion acres of pastureland, and 10 billion acres of forest land, it will be impossible to feed the world, keep global warming below 2 degrees Celsius, or halt the loss of biodiversity.
WHAT IS REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE?
“Regenerative Agriculture” describes farming and grazing practices that, among other benefits, reverse climate change by rebuilding soil organic matter and restoring degraded soil biodiversity – resulting in both carbon drawdown and improving the water cycle.
“Regenerative Agriculture” describes farming and grazing practices that, among other benefits, reverse climate change by rebuilding soil organic matter and restoring degraded soil biodiversity – resulting in both carbon drawdown and improving the water cycle.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
The key to regenerative agriculture is that it not only “does no harm” to the land but actually improves it, using technologies that regenerate and revitalize the soil and the environment. Regenerative agriculture leads to healthy soil, capable of producing high quality, nutrient dense food while simultaneously improving, rather than degrading land, and ultimately leading to productive farms and healthy communities and economies. It is a dynamic and holistic, incorporating permaculture and organic farming practices, including conservation tillage, cover crops, crop rotation, composting, mobile animal shelters and pasture cropping, to increase food production, farmers’ income and especially, topsoil.
The key to regenerative agriculture is that it not only “does no harm” to the land but actually improves it, using technologies that regenerate and revitalize the soil and the environment. Regenerative agriculture leads to healthy soil, capable of producing high quality, nutrient dense food while simultaneously improving, rather than degrading land, and ultimately leading to productive farms and healthy communities and economies. It is a dynamic and holistic, incorporating permaculture and organic farming practices, including conservation tillage, cover crops, crop rotation, composting, mobile animal shelters and pasture cropping, to increase food production, farmers’ income and especially, topsoil.
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I. soil preparation
By: Joseph Masabni
https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/library/gardening/soil-preparation/
The soil is a storehouse for all the elements plants need to grow: nutrients, organic matter, air, and water. Soil also provides support for plant roots. When properly prepared and cared for, soil can be improved each year and will continue to grow plants forever. Uncared for soil will soon become suited only for growing weeds.
SOIL TYPES
Some are very sandy, some are sticky clay, and others are rocky and shallow.
Sandy soils do not hold enough water; in windy areas, blowing sand can injure vegetables. Clay soils hold too much water and do not allow enough air to enter the soil.
Vegetables need a deep and well drained soil with adequate organic matter. Good garden soil with proper moisture will not form a hard ball when squeezed in the hand. It should crumble easily when forced between the fingers. It should not crack or crust over when dry (Fig. 1).
Figure 1. Good garden soil will crumble easily.
SOIL IMPROVEMENT
Almost all garden soils can be improved by adding organic matter to make soil more workable. Organic matter:
Plant materials: This includes leaves, straw, and grass clippings. Work material into the soil several months before planting to allow it time to decompose. Most gardeners do this during the winter.
Manure: Use composted manure and incorporate it into the soil well ahead of planting. Do not use fresh manure, as it can damage plants and introduce diseases. Apply 30 to 40 pounds of composted manure for every 100 square feet.
Compost: Compost consists of decayed plant materials. Work it into the soil before planting.
Sawdust: Compost this before adding it to the garden. Do not use uncomposted sawdust because it will rob the soil of nitrogen and, consequently, starve the plants of this essential nutrient.
Green manure: Plant rye or oats in the fall and plow or spade it under in the spring. These cannot be used if a fall garden is planted.
Do not add more than a 4-inch layer of organic material.
Most heavy clay soils benefit from the addition of gypsum. It adds some nutrients but, more importantly, it loosens clay soils and makes it more workable. Spread about 3 to 4 pounds of gypsum per 100 square feet over garden soil after it has been dug in the winter. Work it into the soil or allow it to be washed in by rain.
Add sand and organic matter to clay soil to make it more workable. Mix 2 inches of clean sand and 3 inches of organic matter, such as leaves, with the soil. Do this during the winter.
https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/library/gardening/soil-preparation/
The soil is a storehouse for all the elements plants need to grow: nutrients, organic matter, air, and water. Soil also provides support for plant roots. When properly prepared and cared for, soil can be improved each year and will continue to grow plants forever. Uncared for soil will soon become suited only for growing weeds.
SOIL TYPES
Some are very sandy, some are sticky clay, and others are rocky and shallow.
Sandy soils do not hold enough water; in windy areas, blowing sand can injure vegetables. Clay soils hold too much water and do not allow enough air to enter the soil.
Vegetables need a deep and well drained soil with adequate organic matter. Good garden soil with proper moisture will not form a hard ball when squeezed in the hand. It should crumble easily when forced between the fingers. It should not crack or crust over when dry (Fig. 1).
Figure 1. Good garden soil will crumble easily.
SOIL IMPROVEMENT
Almost all garden soils can be improved by adding organic matter to make soil more workable. Organic matter:
- Loosens tight clay
- Helps sand hold more water
- Makes soil easier to dig
- Adds nutrients
Plant materials: This includes leaves, straw, and grass clippings. Work material into the soil several months before planting to allow it time to decompose. Most gardeners do this during the winter.
Manure: Use composted manure and incorporate it into the soil well ahead of planting. Do not use fresh manure, as it can damage plants and introduce diseases. Apply 30 to 40 pounds of composted manure for every 100 square feet.
Compost: Compost consists of decayed plant materials. Work it into the soil before planting.
Sawdust: Compost this before adding it to the garden. Do not use uncomposted sawdust because it will rob the soil of nitrogen and, consequently, starve the plants of this essential nutrient.
Green manure: Plant rye or oats in the fall and plow or spade it under in the spring. These cannot be used if a fall garden is planted.
Do not add more than a 4-inch layer of organic material.
Most heavy clay soils benefit from the addition of gypsum. It adds some nutrients but, more importantly, it loosens clay soils and makes it more workable. Spread about 3 to 4 pounds of gypsum per 100 square feet over garden soil after it has been dug in the winter. Work it into the soil or allow it to be washed in by rain.
Add sand and organic matter to clay soil to make it more workable. Mix 2 inches of clean sand and 3 inches of organic matter, such as leaves, with the soil. Do this during the winter.
WHAT MAKES SOIL?
Basically, when it comes to soil there are two main ingredients, with an few others added to the mix in smaller doses. The main two ingredients are sand and clay. All soil will be a mix of various parts of sand to clay. Soils with more sand in them will be lighter, more grainy and, if you pick it up in your hand, will easily run through your fingers. Soils with more clay will be heavier, absorb more water, stick together more and, if you pick it up, will stick to your hands a lot more.
Added to sand and clay, in soils, are various other minerals such as limestone, sulfur and the like. Organic matter also plays a very important role in determining what your soil is like. Generally speaking, it is the organic matter which binds together the sand particles and the clay particles. This is a little simplified, but it fits for the explanation.
WHAT MAKES GOOD SOIL?
A soil can be considered ‘good’ when it has particular levels of sand, clay, organic matter and another ingredient called silt. This ‘good’ soil has a name and that is loam. Now, there are slight variations in what is considered as loam as well, you can have light and heavy loam, but they are just small differences in the overall make up. For the purposes of this article, ‘good soil’ is a medium loam, so smack bang in the middle of heavy and light loams.
Roughly speaking, a medium loam has the following ingredients;
10% Coarse sand (so BIG sand particles)
45% Fine sand (so SMALL sand particles)
20% Silt
15% Clay
10% Organic matter & moisture.
Now, these percentages are just rough, but they give you an idea of what it takes to make your soil good.
WHAT MAKES THE CONSISTENCY OF SOIL GOOD?
Good question, what characteristics does this consistency of soil have which makes it good? Well, loam is considered good because though it drains really well, which roots like because it limits root rot, this loam is able to absorb a good amount of water which gives plants access to water when needed. This consistency also helps lock in various nutrients (added via fertilisers). Loam also keeps a good temperature, not getting too hot in summer and not getting to cold in winter. This is all because this ‘mix’ of ingredients happens to work well together to allow plants to thrive.
WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH SOILS THAT HAVE TOO MUCH SAND?
The positives to soils with lots of sand is that they drain water really well. The problem is that fine and coarse sand are not very good at keeping any water in place to be accessible for your plants to use. Sand also allows nutrients to leech away when water, meaning that your plants don’t have access to the minerals that they need to grow in a healthy manner.
WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH SOILS THAT HAVE TOO MUCH CLAY?
As you can probably guess, the problem with clay soils is the opposite. Clay soils absorb and keep a lot of water, which can actually cause plants problems. Though roots need to have access to water, they don’t like to be immersed in water (unless they are water plants) as they need to be able to breath. Clay based soils do a good job of keeping nutrients, but they often lock them in so well that it becomes difficult for plants to access.
HOW DO I FIX MY SOIL?
This is actually quite a complex answer because, though I have explained loam, I have still only explained it in a basic way. There are other considerations in actually making a good loam or turning your damaged soil into loam. You need to make sure the pH levels are right for what you want to plant. You have to make sure you have enough fertiliser (nutrients) in the soil for your plants to do well and then, of course, you have to make sure it is a good mix as described above. However, generally speaking, if you pick up the soil in your hand and it runs through your fingers really quickly, you need to add some clay particles.
Basically, when it comes to soil there are two main ingredients, with an few others added to the mix in smaller doses. The main two ingredients are sand and clay. All soil will be a mix of various parts of sand to clay. Soils with more sand in them will be lighter, more grainy and, if you pick it up in your hand, will easily run through your fingers. Soils with more clay will be heavier, absorb more water, stick together more and, if you pick it up, will stick to your hands a lot more.
Added to sand and clay, in soils, are various other minerals such as limestone, sulfur and the like. Organic matter also plays a very important role in determining what your soil is like. Generally speaking, it is the organic matter which binds together the sand particles and the clay particles. This is a little simplified, but it fits for the explanation.
WHAT MAKES GOOD SOIL?
A soil can be considered ‘good’ when it has particular levels of sand, clay, organic matter and another ingredient called silt. This ‘good’ soil has a name and that is loam. Now, there are slight variations in what is considered as loam as well, you can have light and heavy loam, but they are just small differences in the overall make up. For the purposes of this article, ‘good soil’ is a medium loam, so smack bang in the middle of heavy and light loams.
Roughly speaking, a medium loam has the following ingredients;
10% Coarse sand (so BIG sand particles)
45% Fine sand (so SMALL sand particles)
20% Silt
15% Clay
10% Organic matter & moisture.
Now, these percentages are just rough, but they give you an idea of what it takes to make your soil good.
WHAT MAKES THE CONSISTENCY OF SOIL GOOD?
Good question, what characteristics does this consistency of soil have which makes it good? Well, loam is considered good because though it drains really well, which roots like because it limits root rot, this loam is able to absorb a good amount of water which gives plants access to water when needed. This consistency also helps lock in various nutrients (added via fertilisers). Loam also keeps a good temperature, not getting too hot in summer and not getting to cold in winter. This is all because this ‘mix’ of ingredients happens to work well together to allow plants to thrive.
WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH SOILS THAT HAVE TOO MUCH SAND?
The positives to soils with lots of sand is that they drain water really well. The problem is that fine and coarse sand are not very good at keeping any water in place to be accessible for your plants to use. Sand also allows nutrients to leech away when water, meaning that your plants don’t have access to the minerals that they need to grow in a healthy manner.
WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH SOILS THAT HAVE TOO MUCH CLAY?
As you can probably guess, the problem with clay soils is the opposite. Clay soils absorb and keep a lot of water, which can actually cause plants problems. Though roots need to have access to water, they don’t like to be immersed in water (unless they are water plants) as they need to be able to breath. Clay based soils do a good job of keeping nutrients, but they often lock them in so well that it becomes difficult for plants to access.
HOW DO I FIX MY SOIL?
This is actually quite a complex answer because, though I have explained loam, I have still only explained it in a basic way. There are other considerations in actually making a good loam or turning your damaged soil into loam. You need to make sure the pH levels are right for what you want to plant. You have to make sure you have enough fertiliser (nutrients) in the soil for your plants to do well and then, of course, you have to make sure it is a good mix as described above. However, generally speaking, if you pick up the soil in your hand and it runs through your fingers really quickly, you need to add some clay particles.
WHAT IS OUR CULTIVATION & FARMING PRACTICE AT PINNACLE FOODS
At Pinnacle Foods we play a big role in practicing regenerative agriculture farming practices paying attention to the practices of agroecology, compost, no-till and pasture cropping practices in particular when producing our seedlings.
Underlining these practices is an approach to managing land that adopts arrangements observed in flourishing natural ecosystems. These are also principles that are enshrined in permaculture, originally comes from "permanent agriculture" but later adjusted to mean "permanent culture" alluding to the role of indigenous knowledge and traditions in natural farming (no till, no fertilizer, no pesticides or herbicides, no weeding and no pruning), in which the practice is rooted. It further includes integrated water resources management systems that develops sustainable architecture, regenerative and self-maintained habitat and agricultural systems modelled from natural ecosystems.
Underlining these practices is an approach to managing land that adopts arrangements observed in flourishing natural ecosystems. These are also principles that are enshrined in permaculture, originally comes from "permanent agriculture" but later adjusted to mean "permanent culture" alluding to the role of indigenous knowledge and traditions in natural farming (no till, no fertilizer, no pesticides or herbicides, no weeding and no pruning), in which the practice is rooted. It further includes integrated water resources management systems that develops sustainable architecture, regenerative and self-maintained habitat and agricultural systems modelled from natural ecosystems.
REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE PRACTICES
The following farming, ranching and land use practices are used to create regenerative food systems and healthy natural ecosystems.
The following farming, ranching and land use practices are used to create regenerative food systems and healthy natural ecosystems.
iI. planting by understanding and working with the science of agroecology
WHY AGROECOLOGY, NOT AGROBUSINESS, WILL SAVE OUR FOOD SYSTEM
It's clear that the factors leading to the locust outbreak, including cyclones, favorable climate favorable conditions for swarms, COVID-19 measures restricting movement, and the lack of permanent infrastructure to respond quickly, have nothing to do with agroecology. On the contrary, agroecology can revert some of these factors by building a more diversified and resilient agricultural system.
As for claims that we can't feed the world farming this way, it ignores the reality that most people already depend on smallholder farmers for their food. Across developing countries, an estimated 500 million smallholder farms support almost 2 billion people. These farms produce about 80 percent of the food consumed in Asia and sub-Saharan Africa.
Sometimes, you can be led you to believe agroecology is anti-technology. Yes, millions of small-scale food producers want to farm in harmony with nature. But they don't reject technology. What they reject is highly priced, patented technology that locks them into a cycle of debt to agribusiness companies. They rejeSoct the power agribusiness has amassed in developed countries to dictate agricultural policy.
As CEO of Tom Farms, one of Bayer-Monsanto's biggest seed growers, the ambassador speaks for powerful interests beyond the high-tech industry and big agribusiness that promise great benefits for the few that can afford them, at the expense of the poorest people and the environment. Tom also has the backing of an administration that tried to block progress on agroecology at last year's UN Committee for World Food Security meetings. Under their logic, those who gain are not farmers but the shareholders of big corporations.
Family farmers are clear: if we are going to protect our planet and keep healthy food on our table, agroecology is the way forward .
And they aren't alone.
In a report comparing sustainable agriculture approaches, the High-Level Panel of Experts recognized how “agroecology practices harness, maintain and enhance biological and ecological processes in agricultural production, in order to reduce the use of purchased inputs that include fossil fuels and agrochemicals and to create more diverse, resilient and productive agroecosystems. "
The movement for agroecology is growing, built on the logic that power should be distributed equally. That's why aggressive opponents to agroecology are firing back. They're scared.
It's clear that the factors leading to the locust outbreak, including cyclones, favorable climate favorable conditions for swarms, COVID-19 measures restricting movement, and the lack of permanent infrastructure to respond quickly, have nothing to do with agroecology. On the contrary, agroecology can revert some of these factors by building a more diversified and resilient agricultural system.
As for claims that we can't feed the world farming this way, it ignores the reality that most people already depend on smallholder farmers for their food. Across developing countries, an estimated 500 million smallholder farms support almost 2 billion people. These farms produce about 80 percent of the food consumed in Asia and sub-Saharan Africa.
Sometimes, you can be led you to believe agroecology is anti-technology. Yes, millions of small-scale food producers want to farm in harmony with nature. But they don't reject technology. What they reject is highly priced, patented technology that locks them into a cycle of debt to agribusiness companies. They rejeSoct the power agribusiness has amassed in developed countries to dictate agricultural policy.
As CEO of Tom Farms, one of Bayer-Monsanto's biggest seed growers, the ambassador speaks for powerful interests beyond the high-tech industry and big agribusiness that promise great benefits for the few that can afford them, at the expense of the poorest people and the environment. Tom also has the backing of an administration that tried to block progress on agroecology at last year's UN Committee for World Food Security meetings. Under their logic, those who gain are not farmers but the shareholders of big corporations.
Family farmers are clear: if we are going to protect our planet and keep healthy food on our table, agroecology is the way forward .
And they aren't alone.
In a report comparing sustainable agriculture approaches, the High-Level Panel of Experts recognized how “agroecology practices harness, maintain and enhance biological and ecological processes in agricultural production, in order to reduce the use of purchased inputs that include fossil fuels and agrochemicals and to create more diverse, resilient and productive agroecosystems. "
The movement for agroecology is growing, built on the logic that power should be distributed equally. That's why aggressive opponents to agroecology are firing back. They're scared.
iii. planting by lunar moon phases
The moon has a powerful effect on the tides. We will also attest that the moon can also adversely affect people and their behavior. People weren't called "lunatics' for nothing! It is also believed that the moon affects the earth's vegetation in different ways depending on the phase of the moon at any one time of the month, with the moon completing a cycle every 29 1/2 days, and although there are 8 phases of the moon, for gardening purposes the moon phases are divided into 4 quarters; new moon, 1st quarter, full moon, 3rd quarter, new moon. The new moon will actually be a dark period where you will not see any moon at all.
To make moon planting really simple, when the moon is a new moon, this is not the time to plant anything. However, just after you see the first crescent you can start planting as this is when there is a surge of energy through the plants and the sap begins to rise through the stems. The best zodiac signs to plant during the first quarter is when the moon is in a water sign, such as Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces.
When the moon is waxing towards the first quarter, that is when the light of the moon is increasing from a new to a full moon, this is the time to plant leafy crops, cereals, grains and other crops and flowers that produce growth above the ground. You can start to sow seeds, transplant seedlings and graft plants when the moon is waxing. When the moon is in the first quarter and is moving towards a full moon you can also plant ground crops that have inside seeds such as tomatoes, green peppers, cucumbers etc. It is also the time to plant annuals and flowers that you want to produce showy and fragrant flowers such as roses. The last two days of the first quarter, just before the full moon is considered an ideal time for grafting fruit trees. Again the best zodiac signs for sowing and planting your moon garden are during the first quarter when the moon is in a water sign, such as Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces.
When the moon is a full moon all plants are at their peak. However, over the next two weeks as the moon loses its light it also loses its energy and the moon is waning to the third quarter. This is the time to harvest your crops, your herbs, especially medicinal herbs which will be more potent if picked at this time, mushrooms, grapes and of course it is the time to prune. This is the time to plant crops and flowers that produce growth below the ground such as root crops, tubers and bulbs and for flowers, your biennials and perennials, and the perennials can be divided now too. Therefore it is time to plant onions, potatoes, carrots, swedes, turnips, beets, parsnips and radishes. It is also the time to plant trees, fruit trees and saplings towards the end of the waning period and any spraying of fruit trees should be done during this period of the moon phase. You can also plant strawberries and their runners out now and if you have any vegetables or fruit that will have to be stored for a long period of time, such as apples, potatoes, pumpkins etc. if you pick them now they won't rot as quickly.
During the last or fourth quarter this is a barren phase for moon gardening where it more prudent to do some tidying up in your garden, pull the weeds, see to the compost heap, spread the manure and turn over the beds. Now wait for the first crescent of the new moon to plant new seeds.
When you are looking at the moon from the Northern Hemisphere, you will see the phases as below. However, if you are looking at the phases of the moon from the Southern Hemisphere, you will see the reverse. That is the waxing 1st quarter will will remind us of the letter "C" and the waning 3rd quarter will remind us of the letter "D".
This planting calendar helps you pick the best dates for popular garden tasks—starting seeds, pruning shrubs, harvesting, weeding, and much more—according to our 200-year-old formula that relies on phases and position of the Moon.
To make moon planting really simple, when the moon is a new moon, this is not the time to plant anything. However, just after you see the first crescent you can start planting as this is when there is a surge of energy through the plants and the sap begins to rise through the stems. The best zodiac signs to plant during the first quarter is when the moon is in a water sign, such as Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces.
When the moon is waxing towards the first quarter, that is when the light of the moon is increasing from a new to a full moon, this is the time to plant leafy crops, cereals, grains and other crops and flowers that produce growth above the ground. You can start to sow seeds, transplant seedlings and graft plants when the moon is waxing. When the moon is in the first quarter and is moving towards a full moon you can also plant ground crops that have inside seeds such as tomatoes, green peppers, cucumbers etc. It is also the time to plant annuals and flowers that you want to produce showy and fragrant flowers such as roses. The last two days of the first quarter, just before the full moon is considered an ideal time for grafting fruit trees. Again the best zodiac signs for sowing and planting your moon garden are during the first quarter when the moon is in a water sign, such as Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces.
When the moon is a full moon all plants are at their peak. However, over the next two weeks as the moon loses its light it also loses its energy and the moon is waning to the third quarter. This is the time to harvest your crops, your herbs, especially medicinal herbs which will be more potent if picked at this time, mushrooms, grapes and of course it is the time to prune. This is the time to plant crops and flowers that produce growth below the ground such as root crops, tubers and bulbs and for flowers, your biennials and perennials, and the perennials can be divided now too. Therefore it is time to plant onions, potatoes, carrots, swedes, turnips, beets, parsnips and radishes. It is also the time to plant trees, fruit trees and saplings towards the end of the waning period and any spraying of fruit trees should be done during this period of the moon phase. You can also plant strawberries and their runners out now and if you have any vegetables or fruit that will have to be stored for a long period of time, such as apples, potatoes, pumpkins etc. if you pick them now they won't rot as quickly.
During the last or fourth quarter this is a barren phase for moon gardening where it more prudent to do some tidying up in your garden, pull the weeds, see to the compost heap, spread the manure and turn over the beds. Now wait for the first crescent of the new moon to plant new seeds.
When you are looking at the moon from the Northern Hemisphere, you will see the phases as below. However, if you are looking at the phases of the moon from the Southern Hemisphere, you will see the reverse. That is the waxing 1st quarter will will remind us of the letter "C" and the waning 3rd quarter will remind us of the letter "D".
This planting calendar helps you pick the best dates for popular garden tasks—starting seeds, pruning shrubs, harvesting, weeding, and much more—according to our 200-year-old formula that relies on phases and position of the Moon.
iV. planting by stellar constellations
In its lunar cycle the moon passes through 12 unequal sectors derived from the stellar constellations, referenced by zodiac signs. Each constellation is associated with one of 4 categories, representing the 4 Elements; Air, Water, Fire and Earth.
In addition, it is believed that as the moon spends time in each zodiac sign, these astrological signs of the zodiac are also influential. When gardening by the moon, planting seeds for annuals are best when planted when the moon is in a fire sign. Fire signs are Aries, Leo and Sagittarius. Wheat, corn, squash, peas, beans, tomatoes and all fruit are best planted here.
The best time to plant flowering plants is when the moon is in an Air sign. Flowers planted when the moon is in Gemini, Libra or Aquarius will result in showy, fragrant blooms. Root crops should be planted when the moon is in an Earth sign. Therefore when the moon is in Taurus, Virgo or Capricorn carrots, turnips, swedes, beetroots, potatoes etc. will benefit from being grown during this moon phase.
Finally, when the moon is in Cancer, Scorpio or Virgo this is the time to plant leafy vegetables. Cabbage, lettuce, spinach, silver beet, grasses and cress will do best when planted during this time.
Gardening Moon and Constellation Calendar
In addition, it is believed that as the moon spends time in each zodiac sign, these astrological signs of the zodiac are also influential. When gardening by the moon, planting seeds for annuals are best when planted when the moon is in a fire sign. Fire signs are Aries, Leo and Sagittarius. Wheat, corn, squash, peas, beans, tomatoes and all fruit are best planted here.
The best time to plant flowering plants is when the moon is in an Air sign. Flowers planted when the moon is in Gemini, Libra or Aquarius will result in showy, fragrant blooms. Root crops should be planted when the moon is in an Earth sign. Therefore when the moon is in Taurus, Virgo or Capricorn carrots, turnips, swedes, beetroots, potatoes etc. will benefit from being grown during this moon phase.
Finally, when the moon is in Cancer, Scorpio or Virgo this is the time to plant leafy vegetables. Cabbage, lettuce, spinach, silver beet, grasses and cress will do best when planted during this time.
Gardening Moon and Constellation Calendar
v. cOMPANION PLANTING
Companion planting in gardening and agriculture is the planting of different crops in proximity for any of a number of different reasons, including pest control, pollination, providing habitat for beneficial insects, maximizing use of space, and to otherwise increase crop productivity.
Plants need good companions to thrive. Except for growth and fruiting, plants are relatively idle objects. They are rooted in one spot and don’t seem to have much control over their environment. In fact, however, relationships between plants are varied - similar to relationships between people. In plant communities, certain plants support each other while others, well, just don’t get along. Plants, like people, compete for resources, space & nutrients.
Some Plants Bully Others
Certain plants grow rapidly, crowd others and take more than their fair share of water, sun and nutrients. Some exude toxins that retard plant growth or kill plants. A common example of this is the Black Walnut tree that produces hydrojuglone. Other plants are upstanding citizens and do good by adding nutrients to the soil, drawing beneficial insects into the garden or by confusing insects in search of their host plants.
As a gardener, you’re both the mayor and the city planner for your garden city. By growing plants with good companions, you bring peace and prosperity to your town. Alternatively, the planting of disruptive plants can quickly bring your garden to ruins.
Proper Spacing with Companion Planting
As with city planning, the way your lay out your vegetable garden is crucial. Avoid planting vegetables in large patches or long rows and interplant with flowers and herbs. Large groupings of one type of vegetable serve as a beacon to problematic pests.
If you mix in flowers and herbs, it becomes more difficult for pests to find your veggies. The scent of flowers and herbs, as well as the change up in color, is thought to confuse pests. Certain flowers and herbs attract beneficial insects to your garden.
One only has to look at the old-age tradition of North American agriculture of planting corn, beans and squash together. Corn grows tall, trying to steal as much sun as possible and taking out a lot of nitrogen from the soil. Beans grow up the stalks of the corn looking for the sun too, but putting nitrogen back into the soil.
Planting squash at the same time does well on the conditions and grows and spreads on the ground growing and harvested long after the harvest of the beans and the corn. Therefore, by inter-cropping, or companion planting, you have been able to grow 3 different vegetables in the same space as you would one.
Companion Planting for Deterring Insects
Although many will disregard companion planting and see it as old wives' tales, many plants, flowers and herbs do defend themselves against insects by being poisonous to them or developing a strong scent that frightens them away, and it is possible that a plant growing close by might benefit from being in this bug-free zone. So, although companion planting is also mixed up in folklore, there is also an element of fact and this method can be happily adopted by those who practice organic gardening.
For example, French marigolds (Tagetes patula) secrete an enzyme or a hormone into the soil that deters nematodes from infesting their roots, and it does seem that tomatoes or other nematode susceptible plants growing as neighbors will be protected. It may be significant that most of these beneficent plants are strongly aromatic.
Planting dill with your tomatoes will attract the tomato worm for you. Interplanting your tomatoes with basil is done because basil will help repel the tomato hornworm.
Planting nasturtiums will take care of cabbage white butterfly caterpillars and great for repelling white fly. They are also good for planting under apple trees to get rid of colding moth.
Nasturtiums are planted among cucumbers for protection against the cucumber beetle and the Mexican bean beetle. Planting tansy among your cucumbers will also send the cucumber beetles packing!
Nasturtiums and tansy help get rid of the Colorado potato beetle, and catnip and nasturtiums for repelling the green peach aphids.
If you want to get rid of aphids then you will need to interplant with sow thistle , stinging nettles or broad beans . Planting chives will also repel aphids.
Sunflowers will help trap harlequin bugs, and potatoes, calendula daisies are good for earwigs.
Rue is good for Japanese beetles as is white geraniums.
Herbs too have been known to repel certain insects. Southernwood is good for repelling the cabbage butterfly and tobacco for flea beetles.
Companion Planting for Benefiting other Plants
Many times, planting certain plants together is also for practical reasons. Planting lettuce next to corn means that the lettuces can be shaded during hot summers.
When you plant cabbages in the late summer, at the same time, and in the same bed, you can also plant garlic. Where cabbages will use of a lot of nutrients, and where the cabbages will be harvested in the autumn, the garlic will continue growing until the following summer resulting in good crops for both.
Planting mint with your cabbages will protect them against the cabbage worm
Chives and onions planted near carrots will help also deter the presence of carrot rust flies.
Radishes when planted next to Chervil benefit from the shade the herb casts, and the result is lovely juicy radishes that are not woody at all.
Beans are heavy feeders and therefore it is advisable to companion plant it with something less greedy. Therefore mustard is a perfect companion.
Companion Planting for Attracting good Insects
You may be surprised to learn that companion herbs can be planted with good effect. The common dandelion that some see as a scourge in the garden should think again. It is now known that dandelions attract pollinating insects.
Furthermore, they also release ethylene which is a gas that encourages fruit setting and fruit ripening.
Daisies, dill, corriander and parsley are all good for attracting beneficial insects into the garden. The pollen they provide make them wonderful bee plants, but in addition they also attract parasitic wasps that prey on insect pests. These plants should be planted throughout the garden at regular intervals as many of these wasps are tiny and fly only over short distances.
Corriander also known as cilantro is will attract beneficial insects like baraconid wasps, hover flies and lacewings.
Mint attracts hover flies and spiders. Fennel attracts braconid wasps, hover flies, lacewings, ladybirds.
Tansy attracts insidious flower flies, lacewings, ladybirds, and parasitic waspsp.
Yarrow attracts bees, hover flies, ladybirds and parasitic wasps.
Larger predatorial insects like lacewings and hoverflies also feed on pollen. By allowing these plants to go to seed, not only are you keeping the insect population in check, but you can save seeds at the same time for next planting season.
Other Good Companion Plants:
Queen Anne's lace attracts hover flies, ladybirds and spiders.
Flowering buckwheat attracts a whole host of good bugs; hover flies, lacewings, ladybirds, minute pirate bugs, predatory wasps and tachinid flies.
Sweet alyssum attracts braconid wasps, chalcids and hover flies.
Plants need good companions to thrive. Except for growth and fruiting, plants are relatively idle objects. They are rooted in one spot and don’t seem to have much control over their environment. In fact, however, relationships between plants are varied - similar to relationships between people. In plant communities, certain plants support each other while others, well, just don’t get along. Plants, like people, compete for resources, space & nutrients.
Some Plants Bully Others
Certain plants grow rapidly, crowd others and take more than their fair share of water, sun and nutrients. Some exude toxins that retard plant growth or kill plants. A common example of this is the Black Walnut tree that produces hydrojuglone. Other plants are upstanding citizens and do good by adding nutrients to the soil, drawing beneficial insects into the garden or by confusing insects in search of their host plants.
As a gardener, you’re both the mayor and the city planner for your garden city. By growing plants with good companions, you bring peace and prosperity to your town. Alternatively, the planting of disruptive plants can quickly bring your garden to ruins.
Proper Spacing with Companion Planting
As with city planning, the way your lay out your vegetable garden is crucial. Avoid planting vegetables in large patches or long rows and interplant with flowers and herbs. Large groupings of one type of vegetable serve as a beacon to problematic pests.
If you mix in flowers and herbs, it becomes more difficult for pests to find your veggies. The scent of flowers and herbs, as well as the change up in color, is thought to confuse pests. Certain flowers and herbs attract beneficial insects to your garden.
One only has to look at the old-age tradition of North American agriculture of planting corn, beans and squash together. Corn grows tall, trying to steal as much sun as possible and taking out a lot of nitrogen from the soil. Beans grow up the stalks of the corn looking for the sun too, but putting nitrogen back into the soil.
Planting squash at the same time does well on the conditions and grows and spreads on the ground growing and harvested long after the harvest of the beans and the corn. Therefore, by inter-cropping, or companion planting, you have been able to grow 3 different vegetables in the same space as you would one.
Companion Planting for Deterring Insects
Although many will disregard companion planting and see it as old wives' tales, many plants, flowers and herbs do defend themselves against insects by being poisonous to them or developing a strong scent that frightens them away, and it is possible that a plant growing close by might benefit from being in this bug-free zone. So, although companion planting is also mixed up in folklore, there is also an element of fact and this method can be happily adopted by those who practice organic gardening.
For example, French marigolds (Tagetes patula) secrete an enzyme or a hormone into the soil that deters nematodes from infesting their roots, and it does seem that tomatoes or other nematode susceptible plants growing as neighbors will be protected. It may be significant that most of these beneficent plants are strongly aromatic.
Planting dill with your tomatoes will attract the tomato worm for you. Interplanting your tomatoes with basil is done because basil will help repel the tomato hornworm.
Planting nasturtiums will take care of cabbage white butterfly caterpillars and great for repelling white fly. They are also good for planting under apple trees to get rid of colding moth.
Nasturtiums are planted among cucumbers for protection against the cucumber beetle and the Mexican bean beetle. Planting tansy among your cucumbers will also send the cucumber beetles packing!
Nasturtiums and tansy help get rid of the Colorado potato beetle, and catnip and nasturtiums for repelling the green peach aphids.
If you want to get rid of aphids then you will need to interplant with sow thistle , stinging nettles or broad beans . Planting chives will also repel aphids.
Sunflowers will help trap harlequin bugs, and potatoes, calendula daisies are good for earwigs.
Rue is good for Japanese beetles as is white geraniums.
Herbs too have been known to repel certain insects. Southernwood is good for repelling the cabbage butterfly and tobacco for flea beetles.
Companion Planting for Benefiting other Plants
Many times, planting certain plants together is also for practical reasons. Planting lettuce next to corn means that the lettuces can be shaded during hot summers.
When you plant cabbages in the late summer, at the same time, and in the same bed, you can also plant garlic. Where cabbages will use of a lot of nutrients, and where the cabbages will be harvested in the autumn, the garlic will continue growing until the following summer resulting in good crops for both.
Planting mint with your cabbages will protect them against the cabbage worm
Chives and onions planted near carrots will help also deter the presence of carrot rust flies.
Radishes when planted next to Chervil benefit from the shade the herb casts, and the result is lovely juicy radishes that are not woody at all.
Beans are heavy feeders and therefore it is advisable to companion plant it with something less greedy. Therefore mustard is a perfect companion.
Companion Planting for Attracting good Insects
You may be surprised to learn that companion herbs can be planted with good effect. The common dandelion that some see as a scourge in the garden should think again. It is now known that dandelions attract pollinating insects.
Furthermore, they also release ethylene which is a gas that encourages fruit setting and fruit ripening.
Daisies, dill, corriander and parsley are all good for attracting beneficial insects into the garden. The pollen they provide make them wonderful bee plants, but in addition they also attract parasitic wasps that prey on insect pests. These plants should be planted throughout the garden at regular intervals as many of these wasps are tiny and fly only over short distances.
Corriander also known as cilantro is will attract beneficial insects like baraconid wasps, hover flies and lacewings.
Mint attracts hover flies and spiders. Fennel attracts braconid wasps, hover flies, lacewings, ladybirds.
Tansy attracts insidious flower flies, lacewings, ladybirds, and parasitic waspsp.
Yarrow attracts bees, hover flies, ladybirds and parasitic wasps.
Larger predatorial insects like lacewings and hoverflies also feed on pollen. By allowing these plants to go to seed, not only are you keeping the insect population in check, but you can save seeds at the same time for next planting season.
Other Good Companion Plants:
Queen Anne's lace attracts hover flies, ladybirds and spiders.
Flowering buckwheat attracts a whole host of good bugs; hover flies, lacewings, ladybirds, minute pirate bugs, predatory wasps and tachinid flies.
Sweet alyssum attracts braconid wasps, chalcids and hover flies.
PLANTING spatial GUIDE FOR MFK seedlings at your farm:
CROP |
PLANTING DEPTH |
ROWS APART |
PLANT APART |
NUTRIENT FEEDINGS |
FREQ (WKS) |
PLANTS PER HECTARE |
TIME TO HARVEST |
WINTER: |
|
Value |
Value |
Value |
Value |
Value |
|
Broccolli |
1..4 cm |
50 cm |
50 cm |
30-40K |
|||
CABBAGE Star 3301 Star 3316 Sapphire Kilimo (summer) Megastar (large-head) |
1.4 cm |
70 cm |
40 cm |
Value |
40-50K |
||
Cauliflower |
1.25 cm |
45 cm |
45-55 cm |
32-39K |
|
||
Lettuce |
|
50-60 cm |
20-30 cm |
Value |
50K 20-40 tons |
60-90 days |
|
Value |
Value |
Value |
Value |
Value |
|||
SUMMER: |
Value |
||||||
Beans |
|||||||
Beetroot |
|||||||
Chillies (Galapeno) |
Value |
||||||
Chillies (Long) |
|||||||
Chillies (Thai) |
|||||||
Cucumber |
|||||||
Garlic |
|||||||
GREEN PEPPER Star 6657 Lyra California Wonder Jupiter (Sweet Blocky Red) Diva |
- |
45-50 cm |
40 cm |
Value |
30-35k per hectare |
25-30 tonnes |
|
Okra |
|||||||
Swiss Chard |
|||||||
TOMATOES Determinate (bush/one large harvest) Star 9001 Star 9006 Star 9008 Star 9009 Star 9011 Zandra Domino F1 Indeterminate (bigger fruits) (harvests Star 9030 Star 9037 Trinity |
- |
75-120 cm |
10-15 cm |
Plant in rich organic soil. pH 6.0-6.8 |
90 days |
40k per hectare 1 tonnage output 1 plant 5-6 kg |
Comparison with Star 9008 |